The red wire connects to bicycle's metal frame (The connection point can be at different places on the frame). This standby lights switch is based on an idea--every metal parts are electrically connected on a bicycle.

Other side view.

Adjust the plastic support, and make sure there is a small gap between the metal needle and part of brake, then tighten up the cable tie, make sure it is very tight! (At this position, the standby lights are off). If there is a different brake system on your bicycle, you can adjust 4 parts to make the switch work: 1. Position of the plastic support on bicycle frame. 2. Position of the metal needle on the plastic support. 3. Direction of the metal needle. 4. Bend the metal needle.

On some bicycles, some brake parts are made from plastic. In this case, the red wire will connect to the brake directly. (OHMS meter testing afterwords)

When cyclist holds rear brake, the brake part will be dragged to close the gap, the metal needle connects to metal brake part (Standby lights are on!). Clean the metal part of brake if it is old or dirty. Do not forget! To test the standby lights switch, capacitor must be charged first. However, we fully charged the capacitor when we test every product before shipment. But sometimes the capacitor may be emptied accidentally in post.

Please note: As a first time user, you have to cycling your bicycle for about 30 minutes to charge the capacitor (if the capacitor is emptied). After the first-time charge, the capacitor will be always charged. When you hold rear brake, the energy stored in the capacitor will light up the 2 front white LEDs and 3 red LEDs at back for about 2 minutes or more (standby lights).

Click here for a short film of this standby lights switch's movement. 240kb file size, WMV (windows Medie Player File).

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